From Solomon and the Queen of Sheba to today's Christian rituals of Epiphany, Ethiopia has a rich and colourful history. As I climbed the path to the complex containing the Menelik II Mausoleum in Addis Ababa, I remembered the warning against taking photographs. I had spotted a picturesque, cylindrical haystack. A soldier nursing a firearm sat in front of it. I waited until I was sure the soldier could not see me, then took a picture of the hay. A shout. An old woman pointed at me. The soldier hurried towards me.
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